Looks-wise, the watch that comes the closest to an all-steel model is now the ref. 116509, which is cast in solid 18k white gold and has the price tag to prove it.That means a delve into the archives is the only avenue still open should you want one, and it is the previous generation that is proving the most affordable. The ‘Zenith’ Daytona ref. 16520, powered by the fabled El Primero, is still the gateway into steel Cosmograph Daytona ownership.Of course, the word ‘affordable’ is all relative. Prices start at around the $20,000 mark, which is a hefty slice of anyone’s money. Yet beyond being one of the most handsome and capable models ever made, any Rolex Daytona represents perhaps the surest investments watch collecting has to offer.It’s a tough call, but the starkly austere Explorer might well be the watch that has changed the least (visually) over its 70-year run. That is even for a manufacture that updates aesthetics at the glacial pace that Rolex does. Every reference, from the prototype Pre-Explorer ref. 6150 from 1952 up to the last of the ref. 114270s in 2010, have been simple three handers, with the beautifully legible white on black 3/6/9 dials, housed in a 36mm case.Then along came the ref. 214270, identical in the detailing but the first example to grow beyond the dimensions in 58-years, measuring 39mm. It increased in size for the same reason as the Datejust – fashions demanded it – but unlike that watch, it became the only option available.That is no bad thing. The Explorer is perhaps the last of the true tool watches in the Rolex catalog. There is nothing about any iteration of the watch that is designed to look flashy or draw attention to itself, and a few extra millimeters doesn’t change that. The new Explorer is basically the old Explorer, and whichever you choose will come down to whether your wrist size suits one or the other.Its strength has always been in its simplicity, and it remains one of the best value for money prospects on the pre-owned Rolex market. $5,000-$6,000 is the buy-in point for a well set up example of the ref. 114270 or, if you fancy going the real vintage route, the celebrated ref. 1016 (personal timepiece of James Bond author Ian Fleming) starts at a little over twice that. Tough, elegant and perfectly built, the Explorer has always stayed true to Rolex’s roots.
Although the Yacht-Master is offered in a range of metals, the Rolesium (Rolex’s term for combining stainless steel and platinum on one watch) models are some of the best-looking options. While the Rolesium Yacht-Master is mostly monochromatic thanks to the similar hues of steel and platinum, the watch offers great texture contrasts thanks to the sandblasted platinum bezel dotted with shiny raised numerals contrasting with the mix of brushed and polished 904L stainless steel on the case and bracelet. You can go bigger with Yacht-Master 40 or smaller with the Yacht-Master 37, both of which are offered with dark rhodium dials that come alive with pops of turquoise that are as vibrant as the Caribbean Sea this time of year.If your tastes lean more towards the elegant and refined, then the Rolex Cellini Dual Time is your must-have travel watch. The recently refreshed Cellini line by Rolex celebrates watchmaking traditions of yesteryear and the Dual Time models are beautiful interpretations. From the intricate guilloché dials punctuated with slender indices and hands to the delicate fluting of the solid gold 39mm case and winding crown, every detail on the Cellini Dual Time is crafted to impeccable standards. The second time zone is straightforward to read via the 12-hour subsidiary dial above 6 o’clock, complete with an AM/PM indicator to stay on top of home time. Selecting the right Dual Time colorway to complement your wardrobe is easy, as the model is offered in a variety of configurations including white or Everose gold cases, black, silver, or brown dials, and black or brown leather straps. No matter if you’re looking for something sporty or elegant, complex or simple, colorful or muted, there are plenty of fantastic Rolex watches for women who travel.The Datejust, on the other hand, offers a dizzying array of choices from extra small to extra large cases, smooth to fluted bezels, Oyster to Jubilee bracelets, steel to two-tone, not to mention the infinite Datejust dial options. Plus, the Lady-Datejust watches even offer full gold and/or platinum models with President bracelets and gem-set bezels. Naturally, because of the smaller case size and limited style options, the Date is generally priced lower than the Datejust.The gold Submariner 1680 models were rated to a water-resistance rating of 200 meters and ran on Caliber 1575 movements. Rolex’s first Submariner gold watch was in production for a decade until 1979 when it was replaced with the subsequent Submariner ref. 16808.
Are they likely to issue a Coke at some point in the future? It is impossible to tell, to be honest. There is already a decent amount of color in the range, with the blue and black ‘Batman’ pieces and the pair of ‘Root Beer’ examples. And with there actually being a total of three Pepsi’s – one in steel and two in white gold – maybe Rolex has decided that’s enough.That being said, the Fat Lady (that ref. 16760 original) turns 40 in 2023, and as already discussed, the brand loves a birthday. So, just maybe…Until then, we will have to content ourselves with the references available on the pre-owned market.Just about the rarest thing in the world (the world of horology at any rate) is for Rolex to succumb to audience pressure. Yet, in 2009, that’s exactly what happened when that venerable old warhorse, the Datejust, was issued in a new 41mm size. The largest Datejust option had been 36mm model since before the Earth cooled, but the trend for ever-increasing watch sizes was one the brand could only ignore for so long.However, the so-called Datejust II not only added a significant 5mm but also changed the proportions of the watch’s individual elements. The bezel grew broader, and while the case got wider, the bracelet didn’t, leading to thicker lugs. Overall, it traded the former model’s graceful, sweeping lines for a more muscular sporty profile, adding bigger hour markers on the dial to fill up the extra room.
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