Rolex has been manufacturing watches with 34mm case diameters for the majority of their long and distinguished history; however, these “mid-size” models such as the Date and Air-King often get overlooked due to the multitude of options that exist in the more standard, 36mm Rolex Oyster Perpetual case size. However, Rolex has manufactured a number of excellent watches – both vintage and contemporary – that have 34mm case diameters, and their highly versatile size allows them to look at-home on wrists of virtually any gender or measurement.Although the Datejust collection has historically had a case diameter of 36mm for the standard full-size model, Rolex also manufactures a line of watches called the Date that offers many of the same design traits and features of the Datejust – even the same movement too – only in a slightly smaller overall package.One of the most “quintessentially Rolex” watches currently in production with a 34mm case diameter is the reference 115234 Date. With a Cyclops magnification lens, stainless steel Oyster bracelet, and 18k white gold fluted bezel, the reference 115234 Date checks all the same design boxes as the Datejust, just with a slightly reduced size. Additionally, since the 34mm Date and the 36mm Datejust share the same movement, the reference 115234 is in no way a “lesser” watch compared to the Datejust, just one that is 2mm smaller.Since consumer trends favored smaller wristwatches in past decades, a number of great vintage Rolex references exist with 34mm case diameters. One of the longest-running Rolex models of all time is the reference 5500 Air-King, which boasts a super clean and minimal dial design that perfectly complements its slightly reduced case size.The reference 5500 remained in production for thirty-seven years, during which time it was fitted with both Rolex’s Caliber 1520 and Caliber 1530 movements – neither of which were chronometer-certified. Due to their long production run, reference 5500 Air-King watches were manufactured in relatively large numbers and can still be purchased for very reasonable prices. Fitted with one of the cleanest and least text-heavy dials found inside any Rolex watch, the Air-King 5500 pre-dates the widespread implementation of chronometer-certified movements and represents one of the best entry points into vintage Rolex collecting.Although the Day-Date President is the classic all-gold Rolex watch, it has never been manufactured in a size smaller than 36mm. However, throughout its history, Rolex has produced a number of all-gold watches within their Date collection that have 34mm case diameters, and lack the additional complication for displaying the day of the week that is found on the flagship Day-Date line of watches.One of the more modern incarnations of the all-gold 34mm Date is the reference 15238, which stands out due to a number of characteristics that help separate it from previous iterations of Rolex’s all-gold 34mm Date watch. While earlier examples were made from 14k gold, there reference 15238 is craft from 18k – the same as what Rolex uses to manufacture their flagship Day-Date President watch. Additionally, the Date 15238 is fitted with Rolex’s Caliber 3135 movement and a synthetic sapphire crystal, which give it all the ingredients necessary to be a fairly modern watch.
Lastly, both the 16613 and the 116613 are fitted with stainless steel and 18k yellow gold Oyster bracelets. Depending on the year released, the ref. 16613 has either solid or hollow end-links, either a stamped or link-style fold-out extension system, and either a gold-through or an all-steel clasp. Collectors have different preferences on 16613 bracelet styles, making it a fun watch to collect.The ref. 116613 offers a more substantial hold on the wrist than its 5-digit predecessor and features solid gold center links, solid end-links, and a machined Oysterlock clasp with an innovative Glidelock extension system. The solid construction of the bracelet balances the Super Case nicely on the wrist for a supremely comfortable hold, even over wetsuits.While the ref. 116613 is noticeably more modern in appearance, it still boasts many similarities to the ref. 16613 in the form of a versatile two-tone finish, similar dial and bezel color options, the same water-resistance of up to 1,000 feet (300 meters), and an Oyster bracelet that wears comfortably and allows for tool-free adjustment over wetsuits. When collecting, it ultimately comes down to preference; do you prefer a classic or a contemporary dive watch?The Rolex Sea-Dweller Deepsea is the most robust and over-engineered dive watch in Rolex’s current lineup. While the regular Sea-Dweller is water-resistant to an insane depth of 4,000 feet, the Deepsea has an absolutely abyssal depth rating of 12,800 feet, which is more than 100 times further below the surface of the ocean than any human could physically survive.Although the case of the standard Rolex Sea-Dweller is not all that different from that of a Submariner, the Deepsea has a re-designed case architecture that allows it to stand up to the crushing pressures found at 12,800 feet below sea-level. As a result of its more rugged and highly specialized build, the Deepsea is among the largest Rolex watches currently in production, with a case diameter of 44mm, and an overall thickness of just under 18mm.
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